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Identifying easily-identified midges (Chironomidae)

These are some of the kinds of midges(1) that are easy to identify from pictures. The list is deliberately simple rather than complete. The combinations of characters I list are sufficient to identify the associated genus or species. The converse is not true -- some midges of the genus, species, or subfamily may have different markings and can't be identified by this article. If multiple features are listed they all must be present. For example, I describe Tanypus in terms of wing spotting but one species has clear wings; many species have a dark band in the middle of the wing but only a few have the full set of features listed for Stenochironomus.

Most midges do not have marked wings. The ones that do are overrepresented here because wing patterns are easy to see in pictures. Most of the midges of subfamily Tanypodinae have been IDed to genus because the common kinds tend to have distinctive features.

Wing veins are labeled here:



Vein R2+3 may not be visible -- sometimes it is missing, more often it is too faint to see in a picture. The label R-M in the left picture refers to the nearly horizontal vein to the right of the label. If there is a vein in the empty space under the label it is the M-Cu crossvein. Crossveins and forks in veins are often surrounded by dark patches. The dark spots in the right picture cover R-M.

Is it a midge?

This is about family Chironomidae. I assume you already figured out that you have a picture of a midge. Their appearance is fairly distinctive. The most similar family with which they are confused is Chaoboridae(2), which can be recognized by the wings held overlapping flat over the abdomen, pale color often with brown spots, and distinct rings of hairs around the antennae when hairs are present(3).

Some of what follows is only true in North America.

Subfamilies

The common subfamilies are Chironominae and Orthocladiinae. Tanypodinae is next, and Diamesinae, Prodiamesinae, and Telmatogetoninae bring up the rear. The last lives in salt water and is found only along the ocean shore.

If the midge is holding both legs above and in front of the head, it is probably subfamily Chironominae(4). If the first segment of the front tarsus(5) is longer than the front tibia(6) and the wings lack an M-Cu crossvein it definitely is. (The last two characters together are good enough if the legs are in a funny posture.)

If the midge does not have an M-Cu crossvein, the first segment of the front tarsus is distinctly shorter than the front tibia, and the front legs are held against the ground it is subfamily Orthocladiinae(7).

If you see a midge in winter it belongs to Diamesinae or Orthcladiinae. Winter means routinely below freezing temperatures, not sweater weather in Florida. Winter midges are broadly similar due to convergent evolution. For example, they are black to absorb sunlight. Diamesinae have an M-Cu crossvein but it can be hard to see.



If R2+3 is connected to R1 by a crossvein, or R1 splits off a fork in the general direction of R2+3, the midge belongs to subfamily Tanypodinae. Very often the wings are spotted and the general color is brown or a dark or yellow green distinct from the more common varieties of midge. The connecting vein is under one of the dark spots in this picture:



Tanypodinae often have an oval pit in the thorax, as in this picture:



This feature seems to be unique to the subfamily. Some Orthocladius have a much smaller pit.

Distinctive genera -- Chironominae

Axarus females can be recognized by a narrow black stripe behind their head and tan markings on green, as in



Stenochironomus are recognizable by color, wing markings, and the black spots near the tip of the abdomen.



Stictochironomus are recognizable by a pale band near the end of the otherwise dark femur, a dark band in the middle of the middle tibia, a dark patch over the R-M crossvein, and a dark abdomen with light rings.



If a midge of subfamily Chironominae has a dark patch at the front of the thorax divided by a pale stripe, it is one of two species of Chironomus.



Distinctive genera and species -- Tanypodinae

Ablabesmyia are recognizable by the general color, wing spot pattern, and three brown bands on each tibia. They can be identified to subgenus based on a combination of wing and tibia markings.



Psectrotanypus dyari. Brown to dark green. Dark band across middle of wing. Dark band across end of wing reaching wingtip, possibly faint at tip, with small clear patches within, matching the pattern below.



Paramerina fragilis.
Brown with wings marked approximately as shown below. The wing markings are made of dark hairs, not pigment, and have a distinct texture.



Tanypus
Brown color, a row of five dark spots in the wing between the R and M veins, some split in half by the "false vein" running down the middle of the wing, one of them possibly faint. Possibly a raised light colored bump in the middle of the thorax. The M-Cu crossvein intersects Cu before the fork. One other species of Tanypodinae has a superficially similar wing with M-Cu meeting the fork in Cu.



Distinctive genera -- Orthocladiinae

The common varieties of Cricotopus can be recognized by the white band on the front tibia and three yellow bands on a black abdomen.



Chasmatonotus has a black wing with at least one large white spot or band and a large trench down the middle of its back. The genus mates on the ground. Males of ground-mating midges generally do not have long, fuzzy antennae.


Identifying difficult-to-identify midges
If you want to contribute views that will be helpful to an expert going by the book, if we get one, here are some features typically used in keys.

Leg proportions. Most importantly, the ratio of first segment of front tarsus to front tibia. Secondarily, other ratios. It's hard to measure these accurately on a picture of a live animal.

Wing veins. Presence or absence of crossveins is most important. Other vein structure is of variable importance. Hair on the wing surface away from veins helps define some groups; most midges have hair on the veins or wing margin.

The above two are easy and a good, clear pair of pictures should allow subfamily or tribe ID. (Actually they aren't easy, but they seem easy when you read the rest of the features, some of which are ordinarily observed on a mounted specimen under a high powered microscope.)

Shape of pronotum. You need to get a close shot from directly above. A little more towards the head than you think -- the front of the midge is bent down. A substantial fraction of all midge genera are defined by this feature. This shot will show features on the top of the head that are independently useful. A side view is also helpful.



Male genitalia. Top view preferred; a second angle is helpful but far less important. Put your MPE-65 to use if you have one. Some species need closer shots than the ones below. (The right one was taken with an MPE-65. I may be asking the impossible.)



Hairy back. Some species or genera are distinguished by rows of hairs on the back or behind the eyes.



Antenna ratio. Can you get close enough to resolve the individual segments in the male antenna?

Spurs. We're into MPE-65 territory again. Can you resolve the details of the tufts of hair and spurs at the ends of the tibiae? From two different angles?



Toenails. The shape of the feet is sometimes used. I'm not sure the fine details can be resolved with a camera in the field.

 
Even though I've only
posted one midge, your efforts are greatly appreciated, as are your helpful comments on my photo.

If I could add a general comment or two...

    "the rest of the features, some of
    which are ordinarily observed on
    a mounted specimen under a high
    powered microscope"


The next live one I photograph will be collected so it can be photographed again in the manner you described. It's the least I can do. I'll even get an accurate measurement for you. :-) DNA and chromosome analyses are out of my league though.

    "Some species need closer shots than
    the ones below. (The right one was
    taken with an MPE-65. I may be asking
    the impossible.)"


Entirely possible with this lens, but it's definitely more difficult with a live subject. For a mounted subject the photographer needs to be aware of the effective aperture of their lens, and attempt to keep that effective aperture at (or preferably far below) f/22 in order to maintain a decent amount of detail. Image stacking is recommended for deep subjects.

  marked aperture times (magnification + 1) = effective aperture

The marked aperture is the f/number displayed by the camera.

So, for the MPE-65 at 5:1 and a marked aperture of f/16 you end up with an effective aperture of f/96 (16*(5+1)=96), which looks absolutely horrible. In my own tests with this lens, resolution at 5:1 (which is not that great to begin with) starts falling apart at f/4.5 (eff=f/27), and at f/5.6 (eff=f/33.6) it is well beyond useless.

If increased depth-of-field with a single exposure is an absolute requirement, it is far easier and more practical to change the magnification to 3:1 and keep the marked aperture at f/4 (eff=f/16 = tack sharp!) than to stop the lens down further while maintaining 5:1 magnification. By changing magnification to 3:1, the difference in the amount of actual subject detail resolved is fairly minimal.

Sorry for all the numbers, but an $800+ lens can't change the laws of physics. The photographer still needs to know how to use their gear, and should take the time to learn what its limits are to determine the amount of "acceptable loss" that occurs when certain compromises need to be made.

 
MPE-65: Resolution vs. aperture
Hi Jay, I appreciate your clearly stated comments.
For anyone interested, here is a link to my efforts to illustrate the effect of aperture on resolution. Check photos #14, #15, and #16 in this album on our Fotki site.
To see them at maximum resolution click on "get original uploaded photo" beneath the initial photos.
I would appreciate feedback.
Gayle

 
Kodak Publication No. N-12
(or a more recent version) gives a good example of the relationship of aperature vs. resolution. Not sure what publications might be available from Kodak in the digital age. They did use a butterfly wing to demonstrate the effects.

 
Just my eye
I only know a little about photography, but my eye chooses f 4.0 on all three inages.

 
Me too
f/4 looks best to me too.

My camera reports effective aperture with macro lenses, not counting extension tubes. The camera body only sets effective aperture. This is a 100% crop from a ~1.7:1 shot with a Tamron 90mm lens plus 68mm extension tubes. Effective aperture is about f/44. Reported aperture is f/32. The lens is at 1:1 so it is internally at physical aperture f/16, half the commanded effective aperture.



I work beyond the optimum aperture of my equipment to add depth of field on live subjects.

This is close enough to count the hairs that could be used for species ID if this were a male.

Thank you
I will try to remember to come here when posting midges. Please don't hesitate to remind me of this article in the spring/summer (I have a terrible memory!)

 
Don't worry
I put a link to this article on the Chironomidae page. I hope that everybody finds it this way. Good work!
Just one suggestion, could you link to the info page of each genus that you mention? For instance Chironomus.

 
Thanks John
I see that you did it. The general public will thank you too. Now it is a lot easier to identify these midges.

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