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Chromatic aberration

Is anyone else having problems with chromatic aberration? I use sevel close-up diopters stacked which apparently causes this problem. I do have extension tubes that avoid all the glass but then I can't read my f-stops. Does any have a solution to reducing this problem?

If you're using...
a DSLR, the Kenko DG line of extension tubes allows you to read and set aperture. I use them with no problems on my Canon gear.

 
a DSLR...? I'm sorry but I d
a DSLR...? I'm sorry but I don't know what that stands for. I am certainly going to look into one though. Right now, I am using a +10, 1, 2 and 4 all stacked together, ugh! I have another +10 on the way. That way at least I'll only have 2 extra lenses. Hopefully, this other thing isn't too pricey and I can get one.

 
Digital Single Lens Reflex
camera such as a Canon 40D or 50D.

 
Finally figured that one out
I guess I'm a little slow on the draw but I figured it out a little later. I found one at Citiwide thru ebay. I've written them asking about using it with the Canon xsi and whether I will be able to adjust apertures. It's $124, pretty good price considering the other prices. I hope to hear from them tomorrow. Have the extension tubes eliminated or reduced that chrom. aberrations for you? I'm assuming it's all the extra lenses causing it. I have programs that reduce or eliminate it but it's always extra work.

BTW, I looked at your images...awesome photos!!! Can you tell me about your equipment, please?

 
Thanks Hilma...
That's what I paid for my used set of Kenko DG tubes. Hopefully yours are the same with the electrical contacts to allow continuity from lens to camera.

Haven't had any CA problems with my Canon and Vivitar series 1 lenses. I'm using a Canon 40D with an MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x macro. I also use a Vivitar Series 1 90mm f/2.5 and a Canon 70-200L on occasion for larger bugs. The extension tubes are used mainly on the MP-E for more magnification when shooting mites, springtails etc.

 
Working distance?
It sounds like you're way ahead of me. What is generally your working distance on some of your macro, macro close-up? Do you shoot in the field? Having done industrial and other types of photography, this is a real challenge. I've found most of these critters aren't very fond of posing for pictures (or the wind, or....something else). What would be your recommendation of the closest close-ups at a decent distance? I'm flabergasted at the photo of the moth's face (palpita kimballi) among others. Do you use a tripod, a flash?
BTW, what is "MP-E"? What other types of photography do you do? Are you a professional? Can you tell me a little about the Raynox 250, please?

 
Most of my images...
are taken with the MP-E 65. Working distance is from about 24mm to 96mm. I usually shoot in the field (using lots of patience) and leave all bugs alone after I finish taking their picture :^) Some bugs are found at my porch lights and I'll capture them, cool them for a short time in the refridgerator. After I take some images, I'll release the bug. Here is a short description about my technique for using the MP-E: http://bugguide.net/node/view/222408

As far as close-ups and working distance goes, I try to get as much of the bug on the 10 mp sensor as possible for Bug Guide images to keep cropping to a minimum. I forgot to mention that I use the Canon MT-24ex twin flash with three layer diffusers on each head. I have a tripod, but never use it.

MP-E, I don't know what that stands for but I love the lens! I also do some astroimaging with a telescope and tracking mount. I have been shooting the sky for over 30 years and I'm just an amateur photographer, but have had many many images published in astronomy books and magazines over the years.

I don't have the Raynox 250, but a lot of people use the lens on point and shoot type cameras with fixed lenses and get great results.

 
You're amazing!
I find all your information tremendously helpful. You are way ahead of me in camera/lens, etc. savvy. I appreciate any help you give me. I have my cameras, lenses and a ring flash, that's about it. I, too, do most of my photos in the field but lately I've been catching some and putting them in the fridge for a short period (about 20 minutes) to slow them down. My motto: At first do no harm. They are all then taken back into the woods and placed exactly where I found them.
I'm also looking at the RAYNOX DCR-250 Super Macro Micro Close-up Lens 2.5X. Does that look good to you?

I submit most of them to stock photo agencies and they prefer isolated images, i.e. on a white or black background.
If you prefer, we can continue this conversation at our personal emails addies as it may not be applicable on this forum.

 
Glad to be of help..
and don't hesitate to drop me an e-mail if you have questions. I prefer to use a natural background, but a black background is appealing as well.

 
Just tried to email you...
I just tried to send you an email but it wouldn't go through. Is it not the same as on your home/account page?

 
I've been having..
some trouble with that e-mail address lately. Give it another try and I'll a check it when I get home tonight :^)

What about a Raynox 250 or 150,
I've used the +1-+4 diopters with poor results, not even close to
the Raynox 250, focusing is slow though.

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