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Rearing: Some General Tips




Introduction

I rear a variety of insects and will be writing descriptions and observations of individual species later on. In the meantime, however, I thought I'd offer some very general tips for someone who might be brand new to rearing and happens to find an irresistibly cute Insectus misteriosus to raise.



This article is intended to share some ideas and perhaps offer a bit of inspiration for those considering rearing wild insects. Here I am mainly focusing on phytophagous insects and a few predatory insects who are more generalist feeders. (There are other insects with very specific needs, of course, whose diets and habitats must be accommodated accordingly.)

Here I will describe 1) Habitat Types (butterfly cages, terraria, incubation, assisted living and hospice, holding cages), 2) Equipment and Supplies, 3) Food, and 4) Collecting for Rearing Purposes.



Habitat Types

My rearing room is the area that a normal person would call the living room. The appearance of the room is always changing depending on what I happen to be raising at the moment.

Above the rows of insect cages, I use full spectrum LED lights set to eight hours a day, and the room has good windows for natural sunlight to shine through. Because the room gets natural light and I do not use any overhead lighting at night, the photoperiod simulates that of natural conditions.

Rearing room:




For enclosures, I use mesh butterfly cages or terraria, depending on the number and type of creature I am working with.


BUTTERFLY CAGES

I prefer the larger butterfly habitats measuring 36"x24"x24" for most of my insects. For a few species, I use a 48" tall cage, and for smaller species or for a single pair that I am observing, I use 30"x15"x15"-inch cages.


Inside the Cage

I highly recommend using native plants in small pots inside rearing cages. The large cages and even some smaller sizes will hold one-gallon, pint-sized, and 4-inch potted plants.
Here's a sample cage for insects who use grasses:


Other sample cages:


The plants that I use inside cages include Turk's Cap (Malvaviscus arboreus var. drummondii), Chromolaena odorata, native grasses, starter oak trees from local acorns and local volunteers, plenty of organic vegetables, salvias, flowering plants, willow, and more. I also use cuttings from yard plants, such as hackberry, rose, and peach, depending on whom I'm feeding. Potted plants, however, are best for insects, offering them soil, stems, and leaves, as well as places to climb, rest, and hide.

I highly recommend that you get into the habit of starting plants from seeds and cuttings indoors in the fall in order to have a nice variety of plants for spring. If you use full-spectrum grow lights and seedling mats for warmth, you should have success as long as you provide daily care and keep a close eye on your plants. If you have mild days overwinter and in early spring, you can bring the plants outside for short periods of time to start exposing them to full sun.

Starting plants indoors (I generally have several tables like this one set up during winter):



Opening the Cage

Just about every creature I've raised in butterfly cages, whether caterpillar, bug, beetle, or other, enjoys hanging out on the zipper area of the cage where the material is reinforced. Zipping or unzipping the cage with a creature along the zipper line can maim or kill an insect, so extra care must be taken when opening and closing the cage.

To ensure safety, I check the zipper area first by looking through the clear area of the cage. I then unzip just enough to poke my finger inside the cage. I use my finger to run along the zipper line before the actual zipper so that any creature in the way is moved by my finger rather than the zipper. With very small insects, such as Oecanthus nymphs, you can very gently blow on them, and they will hop out of the way of the zipper. Gently blowing on an insect usually encourages them to walk, hop, or fly, for when you need someone to move away from a spot.

To zip the cage back up, I hold the side of the cage with one hand and zip a bit, moving my holding hand frequently so that the cage remains as steady as possible.

Also take care that creatures do not escape when you open the cage. Some creatures fly out, some hop out, and some run out, so open the cage only as much as you need to in order to do your work. I block the open area as much as possible with my body while working inside a cage.


Cage Bottom

For most of my creatures, I apply four layers of newspaper to the bottom of the cage. For certain creatures who are likely to spend most of the daylight hours hiding under the newspaper which could cause them to be harmed, I use the plain reinforced cage bottom and offer alternative hiding places, such as large dried leaves and cardboard egg cartons. Examples of insects for whom I don't use newspaper are my smallest beetles and my Neoconocephalus youngest nymphs.

For creatures who need soil or sand substrates, I generally use terraria, but in one case where I have adults and larvae together and the adults love to crawl up high, I use a butterfly cage. The cage is 30"x15"x15". I use a container in the bottom of the cage that is almost as wide as the cage and about 1.5" deep. This allows me to add a relatively thick layer of substrate for the larvae while the adults still have plenty of room to crawl up the cage.

Cage with adult beetles and larvae:



TERRARIA

For come species of crickets and beetles (and for snails), I use terraria in order to provide substrate and also a chew-proof habitat in the case of predatory beetles.

To set up a terrarium, I use a 10-gallon aquarium with a metal screen top. Substrate types include organic vermiculite (recommended for crickets), soil, "creature soil" mixes, coconut fibre, and sand. Hiding places can be provided with cardboard egg cartons, large leaves, and commercial terrarium hideouts.

Sample cricket terrarium for breeding:


Warming

To warm terraria or butterfly cages, I use thin, flat seedling mats (used to start plants indoors). They provide a gentle warmth that lightly heats the bottom of the cage where sensitive creatures hide or burrow.


INCUBATION

For incubating eggs, I use containers of various sizes with the proper substrate atop seedling mats with temperature/humidity gauges.




ASSISTED LIVING AND HOSPICE

Since I rear insects in fairly ideal conditions using simulated natural habitats, I often get to see my insects live out very long lives and grow old in their cages. In the wild, it's more likely that most very old, weakened, or crippled insects would fall prey to insect predators or die in the elements; however, in captivity these insects can be protected, offering the opportunity to observe insect geriatrics.

For all types of creatures that I raise, I keep "assisted living" cages and hospice cages to provide the best comfort I can to older or weakened insects. For assisted living cages, I remove anything that could endanger a weakened insect and I add platforms to allow easy access to desired perches. All food is available in shallow dishes at the bottom of the cage for easy access and I use sponges rather than sitting liquids to ensure that no one drowns.

In this case, the insect loves to perch on the broad leaves, but cannot easily climb up to them. I added sticks, which he used to crawl up to his favourite sleeping spots. Food is at the bottom of the cage for easy access.


At the very end of his life, I provided a hospice cage where he was still able to eat his apple and drink from his nectar sponge:


These are examples of end-of-life hospice cages for katydids, Oecanthus, Gryllus, Conocephalus, and Pediodectes:



For predatory insects, in addition to the common foods I always offer, I provide meat products, such as cooked chicken and cooked turkey bits. Some carnivorous insects will eat wet cat food, as well. Since most of the insects that I rear, including obligate carnivores, will also nectar, the nectar sponges and apple slices are a hit.

These ageing Neobarrettia spinosa are doing well in individual Assisted Living Cages:





VIDEO of very, very old cricket munching on lettuce.

The most important food for hospice cages is the butterfly sponge (more information in the food section below).

I get very attached to the insects that I care for and am deeply grieved when I lose them. Most insects will fall to the bottom of the cage when they pass on, but you might find some still in plants or even hanging on to the side or top of the cage by the claws of their tarsi. Some insects find hiding places to die such as under the newspaper on the bottom of the cage or behind a potted plant. Of course, older insects in assisted living or hospice cages might simply die in place and they can be kept as comfortable as possible at the end of their lives. When my insects pass on, I return them to the earth in my butterfly garden and offer a blessing. I consider each one a miracle and a cherished gift that I had the privilege of knowing and caring for.


HOLDING CAGES

I keep various types of holding cages for diverse purposes, including
• holding cages for overwintering plants, substrate containers, eggs;
• holding cages for insects while I am cleaning their habitat;
• holding cages for overnighting insects (often honey bees) or temporarily keeping other rescued insects that will be released as soon as conditions permit.

For holding cages, I use large butterfly cages, small butterfly cages, critter keepers, and large food storage containers, depending on the purpose.

Sample holding cage for a rescued wasp who will be released:




Equipment and Supplies

Besides cages, terraria, and full-spectrum lighting, I use various supplies to care for my creatures. I will include some examples here.

Labelling Supplies

• Post-its for each cage, labelling who's inside and all updates
• Plant labels to label the creature who used each plant (necessary for overwintering plants that might contain eggs)
• Fine-Point Sharpies in front of each cage
• Clothes pins for holding labels
• Tape for labels

Cage using plant labels:



Insect Containers

I take advantage of laminated junk mail that I receive by cutting it to fit over clear plastic containers used for catching insects indoors. Next to each cage, I keep containers of various sizes for when I need to move insects from one cage to another or to catch escapees who make their way out while I am cleaning the cage.
Handy containers can be purchased at dollar stores: "punch" cups, 2.3-oz containers in 10-packs, and "jigger cups." The tops are cut from anything laminated.



Observation Equipment

• magnifying glasses
• clear plastic flexible rulers for measurements
• flashlights
• adjustable telescopic mirrors (for checking behind and under leaves without disturbing the vegetation)
• microscope with camera


Feeding Dishes (more information in the Food section)

• For water dishes, I use the plastic tops from all kinds of drinks, such as gatorade bottles and whatever I can convince my friends to save for me.
• For food dishes, I use the small drink tops as well as various sizes of plastic jar lids, such as from peanut butter, oatmeal, and other common products.
• In addition, I use cellulose sponges for butterfly sponges and water (see Food section for more on this).

Dishes of various sizes for cricket powder, suet, fish flakes, oats, and more:



Insect Handling Supplies

• long-handled cotton swabs (thank you, Covid testing) for rescuing and cleaning off insects who get caught in water
• toothpicks for moving small insects, such as first-instar larvae and nymphs
• dissection kit (I don't dissect, but I use the tools for handling insects and for occasional assistance in moulting, cleaning, and other untroublings of troubled insects.)


Cage Care and Spot Cleaning Supplies

• fine-mist spray bottles for adding moisture
• heated seedling mats for adding warmth to cages or terraria
• full spectrum lighting for illuminating cages during daylight hours
• fans for cooling cages and circulating air
• floral tubes for plant cuttings
• sticks to add to cages
• scissors of different sizes
• clothes pins for holding cages open while I'm working inside
• small brooms and dustpans beside each cage
• paper towels beside each cage
• thin water bottles for watering plants inside the cage

Floral tube for plant cuttings (the sturdy green ones work well, the small clear ones, not so much):




Food

Providing native plants in small pots with seeds, fruits, and flowers from those plants is most essential in rearing wild insects in simulated natural habitats. In addition, there are plenty of supplemental foods you can use to keep your insects happy and healthy.

Tree crickets munching on Turk's Cap flower:



Butterfly Sponges

A butterfly sponge covers a multitude of sins.

In my opinion, the most important and most urgent food to supply is a butterfly sponge or nectar sponge. Every creature I have raised so far from butterflies to stick insects has at some point used the butterfly sponge. In addition, any insect who nectars can use the sponge.

Butterfly sponges are cellulose sponges soaked in half clear Gatorade, half water.
To make them, you will need the following: clear Gatorade (or Gatorade powder during the Covid-era scarcity), cellulose sponges, scissors, peanut butter jar lids or similar, and a large cup for mixing the solution. (The clear Gatorade varieties contain fewer dyes and chemicals than the coloured varieties.)


Cut the sponges in half and put aside the rough green half (to use for actual cleaning). You will be using the soft yellow half only.


Cut the halves in halves for large sponges or into eight pieces for small sponges (used for tiny insects). Here's a sample supply of sponges and containers that I use for daily cage additions:


Mix the gatorade or gatorade powder with water, adding enough water to make the gatorade solution half strength. Soak each sponge well in the gatorade solution and add to the dish to be put in the cage.


Katydid, honey wasp, and syrphid fly on butterfly sponge:



Cricket Powder

Cricket powder can be used for a large variety of insects, including Orthoptera, true bugs, and beetles. Fluker's High-Calcium Cricket Diet contains plant-based proteins and provides supplemental nutrition to insects.


Katydids on cricket powder:


Other common foods used for a large variety of insects:

• organic Romaine lettuce
• organic apple slices
• organic carrot slices
• other veggies: sweet potatoes, zucchini, yellow squash, corn kernels, and more
• rolled oats
• pecan / walnut / almond slices
• mealworm suet / woodpecker suet
• wheatgrass
• wheat germ
• fish flakes
• dry cat food / wet cat food (for predatory insects)
• seed mixes
• Cheerios (the original name brand kind only)
• fresh water in small containers or sponges

Note: When you purchase organic romaine lettuce for your insects, you can regrow small leaves from the stem (bottom of stalk). Save about 2 inches from the bottom and place the lettuce in a 4-inch pot with damp soil. Keep in cool temperatures in a window sill, water very lightly each day, and wait for little leaves to grow. Then the plants can be placed inside the insect cages.

Lettuce starts in windowsill and lettuce ready to be placed in cage:


VIDEO of cricket playing in water.

creatures enjoying rolled oats:


creatures munching on romaine lettuce:


and leftover lettuce bones:


well-munched apples:


and a well-munched pecan:


Sample trays to deliver to the beetle cages: organic Romaine lettuce, apple slices, raw carrot, cooked carrot (used for weevils), potato slices, cat food (for predatory species):




Collecting for Rearing Purposes – Equipment:

Since my focus is on "compassionate rearing," I only collect animals that I am going to raise, and I do my best to collect them in the safest manner possible to ensure my insect's comfort and well-being.
I carry fishing-tackle bags (mine are Ozark Trail Soft-sided Fishing Tackle Bags) filled with collecting containers and a pair of tree pruners to cut small branches or stems.


Depending on the type of insect, I can generally hold the container in one hand and the lid in the other while very slowly closing in on the insect. In some cases, I close the container over the vegetation that the insect is on and then clip the stem. I add some vegetation to each container to give the insect a place to perch during the transport to their rearing habitat.

Most insects forgive me rather quickly once I get them into a good habitat with plenty of fresh food (and in many cases, some good-looking conspecifics).

I wish everyone a happy and successful rearing experience, and I hope you will get as much joy as I do in caring for and observing some of the magnificent creatures from the world of insects. I am certainly a rank amateur in the world of entomology, but if I could possibly be of assistance to anyone, please do let me know.




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