Beginner Camera Recommendations/Tips :D

as a rugged field camera for both exquisite close-ups (automatic focus stacking) and more distant shots. That camera was discussed recently at https://bugguide.net/node/view/697226 and endorsed again here by at least one person.

There are lots of options with their pros and cons.

My newest camera is an Olympus TG-7. Wonderful for macros, does focus stacking, video, is well sealed and can go underwater. However! The biggest drawback in my usage is that you have to get close and that can affect your subject and the lighting falling on your subject. Also the closer you are, the shallower the depth of field (what is in focus). In addition, there is limited ability to adjust settings (including depth of field), a lot is just automatic. But it is a very handy and capable camera and I love it. Here's a video I did of a sawfly larva, about an inch away from the front of the camera. I used a tripod with a long plate to get close to the subject. Sawfly Larva by Vickie, on Flickr

Optional and good items to get with the TG-7 is a remote shutter release and the led diffuser ring.

With the larva, disturbing it by being so close wasn't an issue with the TG-7. But I did have to take some action with vegetation so I could get the camera close.

And that brings us to the bridge cameras. I have many Panasonic Lumix cameras and I love them all. I don't have the FZ300 (have the ancient FZ200) but it is a very capable and versatile camera. Panasonic cameras are known for their very good user interface - easy to use! You can screw in a good quality achromatic close up filter and be able to focus closer. Achromatics come in varying strengths. The stronger, the closer you can come in and focus on subject but know that depth of field will get narrower and narrower!

https://www.dpreview.com/forums/1033 is a good forum for learning about this camera.

The above cameras have very, very tiny sensors, often called pin head sensors. As you go up in size, the quality of the image can increase but the depth of field will decrease. I assume you want the whole bug in focus. To do that with a large sensor, you have to stop down the aperture a lot. That decreases the light requiring an increase in the ISO or decrease in the shutter speed.

If I were you, as a beginner in photography and interested in bugs, I would start with a small sensor camera. Though I do like the Olympus TG-7 despite it's drawbacks, I would recommend something like the Panasonic Lumix FZ300 with a couple of achromats (close up filter). The zoom of the FZ300 with appropriate strength achromats will let you set up the camera a comfortable distance away from the subject. And the FZ300 allows you to adjust everything, aperture, shutter speed, ISO. You MUST learn these terms and what they mean, how they interact, how changing them affects the image. This will get you familiar with the basic concepts that will pay off if and when you upgrade to larger sensor, more expensive camera kits.

All my recent images used a Canon G15, a bridge camera. It has 5X optical zoom, a macro setting, and manual focus if you sometimes want that. Adjustments like sun/shade/underwater light conditions and exposure compensation are easy to make. (Hint: You can assign one function to the shortcut button, labeled S, on the back. Assign light conditions to it.) It does well for large and medium-size insects. For tiny insects or very fine detail, it can't match a DSLR with a macro lens.

I'd actually recommend a point-and-shoot camera of some sort for on-the-go macro shooting! Image quality is usually not great, especially if you want to shoot without flash in natural light, but advanced models do have manual controls and are still very capable cameras. I'll mention two setups I've had experience with: bridge/superzoom cameras and, more recently, the Olympus (now OM System...?!) Tough cameras. I think others here will have great ideas for more kinds of setups. Whatever kind of camera you ultimately choose, I'd recommend using flash for moving subjects if possible. It'll freeze their motion, and some flash setups are small and convenient to carry around.

I'm personally partial to bridge cameras with medium to large zoom ranges. Most of them have viewfinders, if you'd like one, though I find it's easier to photograph insects with the screen since you often have to contort yourself to get a good angle. The majority of my BugGuide photos were taken with bridge cameras. With a close-up lens attached, you can get some crazy magnification from them. Even without a close-up lens, the long zooms let you get decent results from a distance. From what I know, the bridge camera market is largely dead now, but there are plenty of good models that can be found used. I currently use a Panasonic FZ300. It's weather sealed (though not waterproof!) and a passable camera for non-macro work too. I've never had issues shooting in the rain, though I wouldn't risk anything too rough. The more powerful FZ1000 isn't weather sealed, but the image quality is noticeably better, and the camera isn't much more expensive than the FZ300 now. Cheaper options include the Canon Powershot SX30/40/50/60HS cameras, though they're a bit more frustrating to use. There's also the newer SX70HS on the Canon side, but you can't attach an external flash, so I would find it limiting. Nikon has the P-series. I know some of the later models don't support an external flash. Not sure about the earlier ones. Sony has the RX10 line, but the third and fourth generations with the longer zooms are pretty pricey, even used. They might be great, but I've never tried one.

The Olympus Tough TG-1 through TG-6 models are an interesting option that might be up your alley if you want a tiny macro-capable camera that can also go underwater. As the name suggests, these cameras can handle whatever you throw at them, and might even survive if you throw them at something else! I've only started using my TG-5 regularly as of recently, and have been surprised by it. It's abruptly become my go-to macro camera because of how easy it is to take with me. The cheaper TG-4 and earlier models are somewhat frustrating if you're looking for control. Even the TG-5/6 don't offer full manual modes. But the close-up capabilities are excellent, and there's enough control to deal with most bugging situations. For lighting using the built-in flash, Olympus sells a little gadget called the FD-1 that is extremely convenient and keeps the whole rig pocketable. They also have another accessory called the LG-1, but it's not so useful for moving subjects. I find the light from both accessories to be harsh, and you could also make your own. This is the DIY setup I'm using right now on my TG-5:



Video isn't something I have much experience with, but others might have more to say on that front. The FZ300 and TG-5 both shoot 4K, for what it's worth. The quality isn't bad in good light, though it's nothing to get too excited about either!

I started my macro adventures on a DSLR, but over the years I found the bulk, especially with a decent lighting setup attached, awkward to lug around. Changing lenses and cleaning dust off the sensor was also a pain. That said, with the right lens and lighting, mirrorless and DSLR cameras will give you better image quality than a point-and-shoot!